I’m having trouble describing what it felt like.
There were way more Navy fans than I had expected, but still the streets were a sea of ND logos and green sweatshirts. As one Irish newspaper reported, “City Centre was full of baseball caps, hoodies, and perfect teeth”. The Americans were in town.
I was shocked at first to see blue & gold balloons at the Dublin Airport and an Emerald Isle Classic t-shirt for sale in the window of the Carroll’s Irish Gifts store. But then when Laura and I stopped in the pub of our hotel and had an older alum buy drinks for the entirely Domer crowd I began to understand: Dublin was ALL about this football game.
You couldn’t wipe the smile off my face Friday morning as I wandered the streets, running into friend after friend that I didn’t even know would be there. Most encounters were from my Dublin study abroad program and resulted in shouting the pub to meet at later as we parted ways, but every single ND logo got a smile and nod.
Everyone was happy. Excited. Jet lagged. Giddy.
The Navy pep rally was held in St. Stephen’s Green, a park in the city center, and was a traditional style. Crowds gathered around a stage fronted by the band and cheerleaders and the MC attempted a pep talk. I know this because my ever-curious Irish Godmother insisted on attending it.
Many of my fellow 2010 graduates had a mini-reunion at the famous O’Neill’s pub before the Notre Dame pep rally. Again, more familiar faces that I could have ever imagined. The lack of Irish accents felt almost strange given the location.
Then it was time to take the LUAS train out to the 02 Arena the “pep rally”. This was no half-hearted JACC event. This was a full scale TV production and I somehow scored front-row seats! There were musical performances by famous Irish musicians, the ND folk choir, and of course the band. An Irish TV personality interviewed Father Jenkins, Jack Swarbrick, and even Martin Short. It was prime time and viewed all over the country. I made it on TV! My godfather recorded it.
(Note – you can watch the Pep Rally HERE until the end of the month)
Post-rally I went to one of my favorite pubs, Messrs McGuire, where I was taken back to the many nights I spent there during my semester abroad. We went to the second floor near the DJ and ordered their microbrews while reminiscing. It felt normal.
A bit fuzzy headed, I woke up Saturday morning and after indulging in my Godmother’s homemade brown bread and jam my family headed into Temple Bar to tailgate. There were huge banners across the streets and Notre Dame fans shoulder to shoulder. Inside the pubs it was about a 10-15 minute wait for a beer, but remember they use real glasses and pour Guinness properly. Random “Go Irish” chants rang through the crowds.
There wasn’t too much time before we had to start heading to the stadium for the 2pm kickoff. Most took the free city busses provided, but my group opted for one last pint and some sandwiches before catching a cab.
Aviva is pretty incredible, though nestled between little suburban streets with picky “which gate does my ticket allow me to enter through” rules. It looks like a space ship and has beautiful views of the city.
The upper deck was a bit of a Notre Dame section and yes, they sell beer in the stadiums there. The ushers kind of freaked out when they first saw people doing push-ups, but they were unsuccessful in stopping anyone. Honestly the game wasn’t all that exciting. I’ll always take a win, but 50-10 doesn’t keep you on the edge of your seat.
The alma mater at the end always gets me.
I had family dinner plans after the game, but I know the rest of my friends went to Doyle’s in the city for another crazy night. My body had started to rebel against me after a weeklong drinking tour of Europe so I opted to get some sleep instead of meeting them.
As a Dublin study abroad alum I was invited to attend a lavish garden party at the Naughton Estate on Sunday. We were bussed up to Howth, a beautiful costal town north of Dublin, and treated to live music, and open bar, and an American style barbeque. I left a bit early in order to get one last taste of my Godmother’s cooking at an open house she hosted for all of our family and friends in town. Then Monday morning it was off the still-packed Dublin airport to return home.
Some observations:
- Dubliners were THRILLED to have us. They asked tons of questions about the game and welcomed the 100 million dollars in revenue we brought the struggling city with open arms.
- Every single storefront and restaurant had an Emerald Isle Classic sign or merchandise to sell.
- ND or Navy, everyone was friendly. There were no fights or rude comments.
- We had the most beautiful weather Ireland has ever seen. 75 and sunny. God loves Notre Dame.
- Irish accents are awesome.
I’m going to do more detailed recaps with tons of pictures on my own blog, so feel free to check those out if you want. For now, know that I am in a severe state of post-vacation depression that is only helped by the fact that I now have football to watch every Saturday and Notre Dame is currently undefeated.
Thanks for letting me share my experience!
Go Irish!
